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Italia published by Quadrille.  Photograph: Alastair Hendy
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Christmas

Croccante di Nocciole

Wild Hazelnut Crunch

Almost every year I make these sweets a couple of weeks before Christmas and store them in an airtight jar to keep them crisp. I put them into little individual cellophane bags to give as presents. A little care is needed when cooking them, as the liquid caramelised sugar used to make the hazelnuts stick together is extremely hot and can burn: I use a half lemon as my shaping tool to save my fingers.

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Festoni del Ghiottone

Gourmet Lasagne

This dish reminds me of those apparently never-ending Christmas meals where succulent course follows succulent course. As it requires quite a lot of preparation, I suggest that you only make it on really special occasions. Because festoni is so rich and substantial, you may wish to make it a main course, accompanied only by salad.

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Linguine alla Mollica

Linguine with Anchovies, Capers, Olives and Breadcrumbs

The Italian composer, Ruggero Leoncavallo, who wrote I Pagliacci among other operas, was very partial to this dish. It is traditionally eaten on Christmas Eve in Calabria.

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Panforte di Siena

Spiced Fruit and Nut Cake

This is perhaps one of the oldest sweets in Italy, dating back through the centuries to the introduction of new spices from afar, via the naval port of Pisa. Panforte is sticky but irresistible, and is normally eaten in winter, perhaps with coffee and liqueurs after a meal. A small piece is sufficient to tell you about the complexity of the spices used at that time.

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Pignolata

Pine Kernel Cake

The name of this pudding-cake comes from the Italian word for pine kernel, pinolo (pignolo in Tuscany). Pignolata can be rather dry, so it is often accompanied by a glass of Vin Santo or 'holy wine' (so called because it was used by connoisseur priests to celebrate mass). Others say, however, that it originally came from the Greek island Xantos.

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Salame di Fichi, Datteri e Noci

Fig, Date and Walnut Salami

In the southern areas of Italy it is quite common to use dry fruit to make something very special. This recipe requires no cooking, as I use walnuts, dried figs and dates. The result is a sausage-shaped 'salami' which can be enjoyed in slices with coffee or a good dessert wine. It also accompanies cheese very well.

You could make a slightly different version to that offered here. Replace the orange peel with 125g (4 1/4 oz) pine kernels and add one tablespoon of fennel seed. Omit the vanilla and pepper.

You will need some rice paper, foil and greaseproof paper.

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Torta di Nocciole l Cioccolato

Hazelnut and Chocolate Cake

I can't resist any hazelnut cake. I find the taste of the nuts, especially roasted, highly attractive. I hope you will agree with me.

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Tortelli di Zucca

Pumpkin Ravioli

For some reason, ravioli are called tortelli in Emilia-Romagna and parts of lower Lombardy. The most famous are those of Cremona, and there are many variations in the fillings. Here, though, is the most classic recipe. It is a typical Christmas dish, but people love it throughout the whole winter when the wonderfully thick-fleshed, orange-red pumpkin, which can also be bought in pieces, is available.

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