Autumn
Acciughe in Salsa Verde
Anchovy Fillets in Green Sauce
Perhaps more than any other, this recipe reminds me of my youth, as Piedmont is the region where it is most liked and eaten. Some friends and I would go on outings into the mountains or nearby villages, and we would invariably end up in a small inn or cafe for lunch. Here we would devour huge quantities of anchovies in green sauce, served with slices of home-made salami and slices of succulent fresh bread, all washed down with a locally produced Barbera wine. Few meals have remained so clearly in my mind!
Camoscio in Salmi
Venison Steak with Wild Mushrooms
This is a typical dish of the Aosta valley region, where it is still possible to hunt deer with a licence that is rather hard to come by. In the rest of Europe it is much easier to find venison, as deer are farmed now in many places. In Italy it is traditional to serve venison with freshly made polenta, which transforms it into a truly magnificent dish.
Cervo con Spugnole
Venison with Morel Sauce
To ensure tenderness, the best cut to use is the fillet, but unfortunately this is also the most expensive. This morel sauce also goes very well with the quenelles of pike.
Coniglio al Forno
Baked Rabbit
There exist as many versions of this dish in Italy as there are regions! Whether wild or farmed, rabbit has delicious meat, which can be compared to that of chicken and veal. I think the flavour of wild rabbit is very distinct, especially when baked or stewed.
Coniglio alla Cacciatora
Hunter's Rabbit Stew
When I was a boy, I was taught by my older brother how to kill (and skin) wild rabbits, and I remember the pride I felt taking such good meat home to my mother – and this was after the war when meat was hard to get. If you are unsure of how to cut the rabbit into pieces, ask your butcher to do it for you.
Coniglio Arrosto con Patate
Roast Rabbit with Potatoes
Rabbit meat is similar to chicken in that it is tender and white. It will usually need some additional flavours to make it more interesting: onion and rosemary are ideal.
Cozze al Forno
Baked Mussels
This recipe is popular in many parts of Italy, and is very easy to prepare. It can also be served as a main course: simply increase the quantity of mussels. Because you are cooking with olive oil, the mussels can be eaten hot or cold.
Cozze Gratinate
Mussel Gratin
These mussels are ideal as an antipasto. They can be served warm or cold.
Crema alla Panna
Pannacotta from the Aosta Valley
This is the original pannacotta. According to the Aostani, the recipe originated in Savoy, and it is probably a derivative of the French creme caramel, except that there are no eggs in pannacotta, only a little gelatine to hold it together.
Crema di Funghi Porcini
Wild Mushroom Soup
Simply handling the main ingredients for this soup of wild mushrooms fills me with ecstasy and reminds me always of autumnal walks in beautiful woods in search of them. This soup can be made in two ways, both of which are delicious. I like to serve the version with fresh ceps. (During the rest of the year I make it with ceps I have frozen). The alternative version is even simpler, and (unless you have gathered your own ceps) cheaper.